North Berwick golf guide: the West Links, the Redan & the wall
One of the world's oldest courses still played over its original ground — a quirky, walkable seaside links on the Firth of Forth, home of the original Redan and the wall at the 13th, and open to visitors. The course, booking, season and getting there.
North Berwick's West Links is one of the most loved and most copied courses on earth — a genuinely ancient seaside links, played over essentially its original ground since 1832, that gave golf the original Redan (the par-3 15th, replicated on hundreds of courses worldwide) and the wall at the 13th, where you play your approach over a centuries-old stone dyke. It's quirky, walkable, right beside the town, and — unlike some of Scotland's grander names — genuinely open to visitors.
Here's the course and its famous holes, how to book as a visitor, the season, and how to fit it into an East Lothian 'Golf Coast' trip.
Where
North Berwick, East Lothian — on the Firth of Forth, east of Edinburgh
Course
The West Links (par 71), a seaside links played since 1832
Nearest airport
Edinburgh (EDI) ~1 hr; direct train from Edinburgh Waverley to North Berwick
Best time
Visitor season roughly Mar–Nov; May–Sep for the long daylight
Access
Members' club, but visitors welcome — book direct (Fri & Sat reserved for members)
Famous holes
The 15th 'Redan' (the original) and the 13th 'Pit' (the wall)
Evolved over time (played since 1832) · 1832 · 18 holes · Seaside links · par 71
One of the world's oldest courses on its original ground; home of the original Redan
The West Links is links golf at its most characterful — running fairways hard by the beach, blind shots, burns, and greens tucked into and behind natural (and man-made) features. The 15th, 'Redan', is the template hole: a long par-3 played across a valley to a green that sits up and falls away to the left, copied on great courses all over the world. The 13th, 'Pit', asks you to fire an approach over an ancient stone wall to a green hidden behind it.
It is not long by modern championship standards, and it isn't trying to be — the joy is the ground game, the sea views to Bass Rock and the islands, and holes that have barely changed in generations. Take a caddie or a yardage book the first time; local knowledge is everything here.
How to play North Berwick (booking)
North Berwick Golf Club is a members' club, but the West Links warmly welcomes visitors — you don't need a connection, just a booking. In the visitor season (roughly March to November), tee times are offered to visitors on most weekdays and Sundays, with Fridays and Saturdays reserved for members. Book direct through the club: exclusive fourballs can be reserved online, while smaller groups book through the bookings team by email or phone. Reserve well ahead for summer.
Green fees are a premium championship-links rate that changes year to year, so check the club's current price. A caddie is money well spent on a first visit — this is a course where knowing the lines matters.
The West Links is a seasonal links with a visitor window running roughly March to November. May to September gives the long Scottish daylight and the best chance of firm, fast conditions, though the Firth of Forth serves up wind and the odd shower any month — pack for it. Late spring and early autumn are quieter and often the sweet spot for a visitor.
Getting there
North Berwick is one of the most accessible great links in Scotland: there's a direct train from Edinburgh Waverley to North Berwick station, and from there the West Links is a short walk downhill. By car it's about 40 minutes to an hour east of Edinburgh, with Edinburgh Airport (EDI) roughly an hour away. The town itself is a proper seaside resort, so you can happily base here for a few days.
How to play it
North Berwick anchors the East Lothian 'Golf Coast' — a dense run of links east of Edinburgh that includes Gullane, the Renaissance Club and, at Gullane, Muirfield (a separate, private club, home of the Honourable Company). String several together for a links week, or pair North Berwick with a run north to St Andrews and Kingsbarns in Fife. Note North Berwick's own East Links (the Glen) is a separate, shorter course in the town — the world-famous one is the West.
What to pack
The kit this trip demands
North Berwick is exposed, walking links golf on the Firth of Forth — pack a proper Scottish coastal kit and expect to carry:
Yes. North Berwick is a members' club but visitors are genuinely welcome on the West Links — book direct. In the visitor season (roughly March–November) tee times are offered on most weekdays and Sundays, with Fridays and Saturdays reserved for members. Reserve well ahead for summer and consider a caddie.
What is the Redan hole at North Berwick?
The 15th, 'Redan', is a long par-3 played across a valley to a green that sits up and falls away to the left, guarded by a deep bunker. It is the original Redan — one of the most copied template holes in golf, replicated on great courses around the world.
What is the wall at North Berwick?
It's the 13th, 'Pit' — a short par-4 whose green sits directly behind an ancient stone wall, so your approach has to be flighted over the dyke to a green hidden beyond it. It's one of the most photographed and most fun holes in links golf.
Is North Berwick the same as Muirfield?
No. Muirfield is a separate, private club — the home of the Honourable Company of Edinburgh Golfers, at nearby Gullane. North Berwick West Links is a different course and welcomes visitors. Both are part of the East Lothian 'Golf Coast' cluster east of Edinburgh.
How do you get to North Berwick?
There's a direct train from Edinburgh Waverley to North Berwick station, a short walk from the links. By car it's about 40 minutes to an hour east of Edinburgh, with Edinburgh Airport roughly an hour away.
