Ballybunion golf guide: playing one of the world's great links
Tom Watson's beloved Old Course, on the towering dunes of the Kerry coast. How to play it, when to go, how visitors book, and how to fit it into a south-west Ireland tour.
Ballybunion, on the Atlantic coast of County Kerry, is one of the greatest links on earth — the course Tom Watson said 'nobody can call himself a golfer until' they've played, and which Herbert Warren Wind called the finest seaside course he'd ever seen. Its Old Course tumbles through some of the largest dunes in Ireland with the ocean on one side, and it's the anchor of any south-west Ireland golf trip.
It's a members' club that genuinely welcomes visitors — with structure, so plan ahead. Here's how: the two courses, when to go, how to book a tee time, how to get there, and how to string it into a Wild Atlantic Way links tour.
Where
Ballybunion, County Kerry, south-west Ireland
Courses
The Old Course + the Cashen Course
Nearest airport
Shannon (SNN) ~1–1.5h; Kerry (KIR) closest but limited; Cork ~1.5h
Best time
May–Sep; Apr & Oct quieter; wind & rain any month
Access
Visitors welcome — mainly weekday mornings (Old); book far ahead
Evolved (refined by Tom Simpson & Tom Watson) · 18 holes from 1926 · 18 holes · Links
A perennial world top-30 links and top-10 in Britain & Ireland
The flagship, and a genuine world-tier links. Fairways tumble through enormous marram-covered dunes right on the Atlantic, with relatively few bunkers — the terrain does the defending. Tom Simpson refined it in the 1930s and Tom Watson updated it in 1995 as a labour of love. The closing stretch along the dunes is as good as links golf gets.
The Cashen Course
Robert Trent Jones Sr. · 1980s · 18 holes · Links
The sister course, built on dunes even taller than the Old — shorter, more strategic and quirkier, on land RTJ Sr called 'perhaps the finest piece of links land in the world'. A strong links in its own right (check current status, as it has been closed for upgrade work).
How visitors play Ballybunion
Ballybunion is a members' club that genuinely welcomes visitors, but with real structure — don't assume you can just turn up. Visitor play on the Old Course is mainly weekday mornings, roughly mid-April to early October (afternoons on the Cashen), with weekends usually reserved for members. Book online or through the club, expect prepayment, and note that peak Old Course times sell out often a year ahead — reserve early. Green fees are premium; confirm current rates and any handicap requirement on the club's visitor page.
When to go
The Irish links calendar runs best May to September — the longest daylight, firmest turf and warmest weather (relatively speaking). April and October are quieter shoulder windows with better availability. Wind and rain are possible any day, any month — this is exposed Atlantic linksland, and the weather is part of the experience rather than a reason to wait for a perfect forecast.
Getting there
Fly into Shannon (SNN), about 1–1.5 hours away and the usual transatlantic gateway; Cork (ORK) is roughly 1.5 hours and Kerry (KIR) is closest but has limited service. A car is essential — Ballybunion sits on the Wild Atlantic Way and is almost always played as part of a south-west Ireland road trip.
Where to stay & how to play it
Base in Ballybunion town (walkable pubs and seafood, with golfer-friendly guesthouses across from the links) or a regional hub like Killarney (about an hour). Ballybunion is a cornerstone of a south-west Ireland links tour — pair it with Lahinch, Waterville, Tralee, Doonbeg and Old Head, one marquee links a day, with the luxury parkland of Adare Manor as the manicured counterpoint. Take a caddie on the Old Course for the blind lines and dune contours.
What to pack
The kit this trip demands
Ballybunion is exposed, wind-and-rain Atlantic links golf, walked with a caddie — pack proper waterproofs and warm layers whatever the forecast:
Yes — it's a members' club that welcomes visitors, generally on weekday mornings on the Old Course (afternoons on the Cashen), mid-April to early October. Book well ahead — often a year for peak Old Course times — with prepayment required.
What's the best time to play Ballybunion?
May to September is prime for daylight and conditions; April and October are quieter shoulder options. Expect wind and rain to be possible in any month — it's exposed Atlantic linksland.
How do you get to Ballybunion?
Fly into Shannon (about 1–1.5 hours) or Cork (about 1.5 hours); Kerry Airport is closest but has limited flights. A rental car is essential — it's on the Wild Atlantic Way, played as part of a road trip.
Ballybunion Old or Cashen — which should I play?
The Old Course is the world-ranked flagship, with dramatic Atlantic dunes and Tom Watson's imprint — the must-play. The Cashen (Robert Trent Jones Sr.) has even taller dunes and is shorter and more strategic; a strong second round if it's open.
Is Ballybunion worth it?
For a links lover, absolutely — it's consistently rated among the finest seaside courses in the world and is a highlight of any south-west Ireland trip. Fees are premium and booking is competitive, so plan ahead.
